Summer 2015 Is Here — Or At The Wedge, That Is

4 05 2015

Ok, all you Wedgees out there. Yes, summer has hit early this year.   And, it’s only May 4th!

You can see by this screenshot from Surfline that the Wedge in Newport Beach has some real waves. Maybe not Puerto Escondido’s 25 to 35 feet, but real all the same.

Clear the beach. Set at the Wedge!

Clear the beach. Set at the Wedge!

Everyone under the age of 30 should surf it big on a short board once in his/her life just to remind you that you are alive, at least til you hit the bottom. The cross wave that sweeps across the screen (not shown) from left to right, has a habit of sucking the bottom right out of the wave and wedging the top into the sky an extra 30%. Thus, the name the wedge. Making it down the face on your feet is glorious!  Not making it, not so much. Usually it involves some sort of back breaking arch or pile driving header.  There is nothing like peeking over the lip, thinking you’re in, then realizing you needed much more board speed.  It’s not just normal rolling wave action.  The surging wedge action actually increases the water surface speed up the wave’s face under your board faster than you can accelerate, leaving you behind.

Makes the 6′ to 10′ waves at our favorite Uppers look like child’s play. But, at least we don’t put the local lifeguards in danger.

Spencer Purdy and all your friends at the Wedge–you show us what real surfing spills and thrills are all about. Rock on!

[Written from Tokyo–first Uppers action I’ve missed in person in a long time–so, take a couple for me.  Enjoy!]

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Breaking Up Is Hard To Do

3 08 2010

I still have the pieces.    Anybody know a good taxidermist?

In June, I lost an old friend.   I guess that’s why I haven’t posted anything since June [good excuse anyway].

It happened while paddling out.   That old buckle, where I landed it a bit hard about 18 months ago, finally gave way.  I got stuck in the impact zone while paddling out and it happened.  One snap and it was gone — my old Russell, shaped by Chuck Barnes, was now in two pieces.  I hadn’t ridden it in awhile, waiting until it was big enough to crank up the speed on the old orange flyer.

2-piece Russell

A couple years ago, the Crowd kept telling me I needed a new board for months on end.  But, I just couldn’t find a good replacement for the speed and agility I found in the Russell– a shape that combined the rounded pin curves of the 70’s with the maneuverability of 2010.

On that day in June, in an instant, my old friend was snapped in half by a unforgiving wave.  Now I have the choice of making it into art or trash.  While my heart says art; reality (and my bride) says trash.

Or . . . . . . . . . . . .  anybody have a ding repair kit handy?